Pattern Review: New Look 6342; Sheath Dress with Overbodice

The Story

The story behind the first dress I made with this pattern is detailed here. I really liked the ease and fit of it that I used it to make another dress (the purple one below) for a friend's wedding when my first design wasn't turning out so great and I did not have a lot of time left (I finished the armhole facings, ironed the dress, put it on, added accessories and left for the wedding).

Pattern Description
Misses' Dress with or without Overbodice
Pattern includes sleeveless or short sleeve dress, sleeveless dress with overbodice and trim option, and short sleeve dress with overbodice.

Pattern Sizing

I cut a 10-14 because I am smaller on top than below. :p
I used gift tissue paper to trace out a 10 from the shoulders to the waistline and then a 14 from the waistline to the hem. Around the waistline, I used curved lines to join both halves for the dress bodice.
I cut a size 10 for the facings and the pieces for the overbodice.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing it?

Yes (with consideration for the alterations I made).

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Very easy and straightforward.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I liked how easy it was to make and all the possible variations available.
It's a basic sheath dress and gives the user room to try out various ideas.

I think a variation with a slit or kick pleat on the back bodice would have been a nice addition.

Fabric Used
African print fabric - 100% cotton.
Organza

Pattern alteration or any design changes you made

For the first dress, I made View C but with the sleeves for View D. I replaced the armhole facings with bias tape (I thought it would reduce bulk but in hindsight, the facings would have been better).

For the second dress, I made View D and I added about 5 inches to the length, 3 inches to the length of the front darts (lesson learned from the first one), 2 layers of gathered ruffles and a strip of ribbon. I also lined it this time.

Would you sew it again?

Yes!!!

Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, it would be great even for a beginner and could serve as a good foundation to try various design ideas.

 

Making the Peppermint Swirls Skirt

* I have never written a sewing tutorial so this isn't exactly going to be one. What I have below are high-level instructions for making this skirt and should be scalable for girls and women sizes. It took me a while to find information on making this skirt so I am hoping that this helps someone else :). At the end of the post, I have links to where you can buy the pattern for girls and another page with a tutorial for another way to make this skirt.
** The numbers below are examples only, all measurements are in inches and no sewing allowance was included in the calculations.
*** Check us out on Instagram @zichie_designs

Step 1- Measurements Needed
Waist (W) = 22
Hip (H) = 24
Skirt Length (L) = 15
# of Panels = 8
Pattern Width (PW) = H/# of panels = 24/8 = 3
* For calculating the pattern width, use the greater of W and H.
Pattern Circumference (PC) = 2*L = 2*15 = 30
* This results in a skirt approximately L long (in my experience). This length can be shortened during the hemming stage.
Pattern Radius (PR) = PC/(2*pi) = 30/(2*3.142) = 4.77 (approx. 4 6/8 inches)

Step 2 - Making the Pattern
Draw a circle with radius = PR. This is your inner circle.
* I used gift tissue paper for the pattern and the circumference of my microwave food cover to determine my length so I could use it to draw my inner circle ...

Draw another circle with the same center as the first one and a radius = PR + PW. This is your outer circle and should be bigger than the first. 
Pick a starting point on the inner circle and about two-thirds of the way around, begin to tapper the outer circle to meet the inner circle.

Cut out your pattern.

Step 3 - Cutting the Fabric
Pin your pattern to your fabric and cut as many pieces as the required number of panels. You can try cutting multiple pieces at one time but I would caution that you don't go above 3 at a time if cutting by hand because the more pieces you have, the bigger the bottom pieces come out.

Step 4 - Putting it all Together
Serging is optional but is a cleaner look and helps with preventing stretching of the curved edges.
Arrange your pieces in the order you want them to go and sew up the curved edges; inner edge to outer edge and right sides together. Align your outer edge piece a quarter inch above the inner edge so that the waistline is smooth in the end.

Step 5 - Finishing
This green and white skirt was my first try and I haven't quite decided how to finish it. I could add an elastic waistband (enclosed or not) or a regular waistband with a zipper.
I think I'll try the zipper; let's see if I can install a curved zipper :).
And of course, don't forget to iron and hem your skirt (I hadn't at the time pictures were taken).

Other Resources
Twirling Skirt Tutorial by Ursula
Pattern for Girls 6m to 10y by Candy Castle