Special Request: Crop Top & Open Back Dress

I usually add new posts on Wednesdays but this week has been busy and I let it slide one day. I apologize. Hope you still enjoy the post. :)

    * In the past, I've helped Ms. NT with a number of alterations to pants, skirts, tops and a blazer. Recently, she asked me to make her a long-sleeve crop top and an open back dress similar to the ones here, here and here. Hurrah!!! She gave me a very lovely yellow and red fabric and yes, I was really particular about how I matched up the pattern across the different pieces of the outfits.
  ** Enjoy the pictures below.
*** Check us out on Instagram @zichie_designs.

Crop Top

Ready for Fitting

Final

Closure is an upside-down invisible zipper at the back.

Dress

Ready for Fitting

Final

Closure is a matching covered button at the top of the open back and an invisible zipper at the bottom.

Brown faux leather was added as the sides of the bodice and the strip at the hem. 

Ankara Border Skirt

  * This is the second Border Skirt from ZiChiE Designs!!!! It's called the 'Border Skirt' because the fun details are in the top and bottom borders. This is one way to show your love for Ankara fabric without wearing an entire Ankara outfit. Dress it up, dress it down ... still gorgeous. I started making the skirt in the summer but many things got in the way and I did not get to finish until last Saturday (12/6) which turned out to be perfect - notice how I am matching the Christmas tree?
** Additional details: the skirt has box pleats all the way around and 2 'invisible' pockets.
*** Check us out on Instagram @zichie_designs

 

Making the Peppermint Swirls Skirt

* I have never written a sewing tutorial so this isn't exactly going to be one. What I have below are high-level instructions for making this skirt and should be scalable for girls and women sizes. It took me a while to find information on making this skirt so I am hoping that this helps someone else :). At the end of the post, I have links to where you can buy the pattern for girls and another page with a tutorial for another way to make this skirt.
** The numbers below are examples only, all measurements are in inches and no sewing allowance was included in the calculations.
*** Check us out on Instagram @zichie_designs

Step 1- Measurements Needed
Waist (W) = 22
Hip (H) = 24
Skirt Length (L) = 15
# of Panels = 8
Pattern Width (PW) = H/# of panels = 24/8 = 3
* For calculating the pattern width, use the greater of W and H.
Pattern Circumference (PC) = 2*L = 2*15 = 30
* This results in a skirt approximately L long (in my experience). This length can be shortened during the hemming stage.
Pattern Radius (PR) = PC/(2*pi) = 30/(2*3.142) = 4.77 (approx. 4 6/8 inches)

Step 2 - Making the Pattern
Draw a circle with radius = PR. This is your inner circle.
* I used gift tissue paper for the pattern and the circumference of my microwave food cover to determine my length so I could use it to draw my inner circle ...

Draw another circle with the same center as the first one and a radius = PR + PW. This is your outer circle and should be bigger than the first. 
Pick a starting point on the inner circle and about two-thirds of the way around, begin to tapper the outer circle to meet the inner circle.

Cut out your pattern.

Step 3 - Cutting the Fabric
Pin your pattern to your fabric and cut as many pieces as the required number of panels. You can try cutting multiple pieces at one time but I would caution that you don't go above 3 at a time if cutting by hand because the more pieces you have, the bigger the bottom pieces come out.

Step 4 - Putting it all Together
Serging is optional but is a cleaner look and helps with preventing stretching of the curved edges.
Arrange your pieces in the order you want them to go and sew up the curved edges; inner edge to outer edge and right sides together. Align your outer edge piece a quarter inch above the inner edge so that the waistline is smooth in the end.

Step 5 - Finishing
This green and white skirt was my first try and I haven't quite decided how to finish it. I could add an elastic waistband (enclosed or not) or a regular waistband with a zipper.
I think I'll try the zipper; let's see if I can install a curved zipper :).
And of course, don't forget to iron and hem your skirt (I hadn't at the time pictures were taken).

Other Resources
Twirling Skirt Tutorial by Ursula
Pattern for Girls 6m to 10y by Candy Castle